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Dan Hotel – fabulous breakfast buffet and selections. We tasted the freshness and goodness of medeterrian salad, fruits, desserts.

First stop – Jaffa, port city 4000 years old, now an expensive area with art galleries. Jason taught from Acts 10 in front of Simon the Tanner’s house. This is where Peter had the vision of the sheet coming down from heaven with all sorts of animals, clean and unclean. Peter was horrified to learn that he was supposed to go to Cornelius’ house in Caesarea and share about Jesus. But, as God always works in His perfect way, this vision was confirmed, and he obediently followed the command.

We drove north on Highway 2 along the Mediterranean Coast past Israel’s high-tech industry companies to Caesarea Maritima, where Herod built himself quite a spread. At this site is an outdoor theater (not an amphitheater), hippodrome, a Crusader gate, a rock carving confirming that Pontius Pilate was indeed a Roman prefect, underwater remains of Herod’s mansion, and the Crusaders’ Restaurant, where we feasted lavishly with a view that can’t be beat. Lunch included: lamb kebabs, chicken, mashed potatoes, green beans, hummus, bread, cabbage, beets, carrots, eggplant, salad, followed by a tray of desserts including brownies and nut bars. And some things I probably forgot already.

Amir taught us under a fig tree (inhabited by a cat). Abraham was sent to the land and God confirmed a covenant with him that his land belonged to his descendants. Amir stressed that the Jews are not colonizers. You measure colonization by how many countries speak the language. There are a lot of countries that speak English, French, Spanish, Arabic…but only one speaks Hebrew. The stones cry out the truth. And because Peter obeyed God and came to Caesarea Maritima, this bunch of mostly Gentiles can now be saved by the shed blood of Jesus. Religion is the problem, not the solution. God doesn’t care about rituals, He wants our hearts.

We continued north on Highway 2 and then turned to the northeast on 67, traveling inland. We turned on Highway 672 to go to Mt. Carmel. Here, we have a great view of the Jezreel Valley (also known as Armageddon Valley). Israel was situated between two great empires: Mesopotamia and Egypt. Hence, many wars were fought here. This is the valley where the armies will gather to go against Jerusalem, but Jesus will descend from heaven (with us right behind Him!) to defeat them and usher in the Millennial Kingdom. The showdown between King Ahab (with Jezebel egging him on) and the prophet Elijah took place here, with the God of Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob easily defeating Baal and Asherah, as told in 1 Kings 18.

We continued on to Tiberias, following Highways 6 and 77, and arrived at the historic Scots Hotel, a former Scottish hospital that was renovated into a boutique hotel in 1990.

Dinner was great, with a wide selection of options, including beef and chicken, rice, potatoes, bean soup, sweet potatoes, fennel, beets, peppers, salads, breads, cheeses, and an array of desserts that stretched about 6 feet wide, too many for me to remember. 

Recorded by Dona

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This morning we were able to get a view of the beautiful grounds of this hotel – lush gardens, artwork, and a few cats. Several of you made it up to see the sunrise over the Sea of Galilee. I’m not one of them, but from the pictures, it was stunning.

Breakfast buffet at Scots Hotel with its terrific orange juice machine. Like a coffee machine for oranges. Big spread of eggs, omelets to order, fruit, bread, sausage (we can have cheese and meat together here!), and pickled herring (nope, not going there!).

Back on the bus and we headed north/northwest around the Sea of Galilee on Highways 90 and 87 which we traveled back and forth on all day. We first boarded the Noah, a wooden flat-bottomed boat, to take a cruise on the Sea of Galilee, which is shaped like a harp and is only 13 miles long and 7 miles wide (sorry Aussies, it’s in miles). Jason played his guitar and led us in two worship songs: The Lion and the Lamb and Goodness of God. Amir then sat down to teach. Three thousand years ago the land all around the SofG was fully inhabited by the children of Israel – Naphtali, Zebulon, Gad, and Manasseh. When the Northern Kingdom fell, the entire region emptied of Jews. When they came back years later, they settled only on the western side, while the “other side” remained occupied by Gentiles. Today, we all own at least two to ten Bibles, but back in the time of Jesus, people did not own a copy of the scrolls. They would go to the synagogue to hear Scripture read, and they would spend time memorizing passages. By its nature of how it is written, the Psalms were the easiest to memorize. In Mark 4:35-41, after a long day of teaching, Jesus got in a boat with His disciples and said, “Let’s go to the other side.” They set off, and Jesus fell asleep. When the winds and storm arose, the disciples awakened Jesus, and He calmed the winds. Verse 41: “And they feared exceedingly, and said to one another, ‘Who can this be, that even the wind and the sea obey Him!’” They were even more scared than before! They knew their scriptures and no doubt thought back to Psalm 89:8-9, “….You rule the raging of the sea; When its waves rise, You still them.” An Emmanuel moment! Jesus didn’t have to say that He was God; He proved it with His actions. We ended the boat ride with a special moment, as Sylvia and Jamie Briggs sang the Cowboy Blessing.

We took a very short drive to the remains of Capernaum. As we entered, the sign advised, “No dogs, cigarettes, guns, and short clothing.”

Jesus chose this town to be the base of His ministry. (This is the place that is gray…gray pavers, gray walls, gray buildings, gray lintels. If you have a picture, and don’t know where it is from, and it is gray, it’s likely from Capernaum.) We first sat under the trees on benches alongside the sea while Yaniv taught us about the topography and geography of this place. The remains of the visible synagogue with the whitish/grayish pillars still in place are from the 4th and 5th centuries AD. But in one corner, they have done some further excavation, revealing the (gray) remains from the synagogue at the time of Jesus. Just a short walk away are the remains of a home believed to be that of Simon Peter and his family, including the mother-in-law whom Jesus healed. The Bible comes to life; we will never read Luke 4:38-39 the same again.

Magdala was our next stop. We entered through the lobby of a modern hotel, cool and refreshing, and then stepped out in the heat to see an amazing archaeological find: a 1st century AD synagogue. There is no doubt that Jesus was at this synagogue; He would have walked right through Magdala as He made His way from Nazareth to the towns surrounding the SofG. Magdala was a prosperous town because it was located on a branch of the Via Maris, it had lush, fertile ground, and it was next to the sea with an abundant supply of fish. They were innovative and built a tower with slots in it on which they dried fish and sold to the Roman soldiers as sort of a “protein bar.” But the most important thing is that this is where Mary Magdalene was from. Jesus showed such love and mercy to her and delivered her from seven demons. And, He has delivered us from a horrible life. He is the same yesterday, today, and forever. He does not change His mind about us even if (when) we slip and fall. Praise God!

Of course, we have talked quite enough about the lunch at Magdalena. This restaurant changed my mind about cauliflower. I know not everyone liked it, but there were plenty of other options, including a salad with tomatoes and cucumbers topped with some sort of frizzled fried things, calamari, breads with dips, calamari, and a choice of entrée: chicken kebabs, lamb kebabs, sea bass, or seafood pasta.

Next to the Mt. of Beatitudes, topped with an octagonal church (8 beatitudes!) built in 1938. It is highly unlikely that this is the spot where Jesus taught the Sermon on the Mount; it was probably located down the road, about half a mile away, but that’s not important. It’s the message that is important, as Jason taught us. Israel had a long history of doing what it wanted, steeped in corruption. Do bad things all week, but then piously observe the Sabbath for all to see. In Isaiah 1, God tells us how much He hates this! Jesus taught through the Beatitudes to show us what He truly wants from us. And we are blessed if we follow them, not “happy” but happiness rooted in eternal joy. Jesus began with these verses because all the rest of the Sermon on the Mount is useless unless we are first regenerated.

We then quickly dashed over to the Jesus Boat Museum which houses a boat likely from time of Jesus which has quite a remarkable story of restoration. We gave good business to the gift shop until the power went out. The credit card machines maybe got too hot? Anyone know?

We retuned back to the Scots Hotel and had a nice rest for an hour before eating yet again. Scots put out a nice spread, and I can’t even remember what I had to eat, much less what all was on the buffet.

Till tomorrow morning…have a great night!

Recorded by Dona

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We had a wonderful time of worship in the grassy courtyard of the hotel, early in the morning, not long after the sun came up. We sang a couple of songs, God Is Able and Agnus Dei, and Pastor James read Psalm 1. We prayed for God’s mercies, and we are ready to start the day.

It seems the breakfast buffet was similar to yesterday’s breakfast, but I did notice some things I missed: whole fresh mushrooms, radishes, bean sprouts, etc., all just a bit out of the standard continental breakfast served at the Hampton Inn on Interstate 75. I stuck with orange bread and these grapes in the fruit salad. They were essentially cherries dressed in grapes’ clothing. Quite a surprising culinary delight.

Yaniv gave us a hard time of 8 am to depart this morning, and I am super proud of this group, as everyone was on board, ready to go at 7:58! You all have to understand this is not normal, as there is always that one person on every tour. 

We departed Tiberias and headed south along the Jordan River on Highway 90, passing huge bougainvillea bushes, in stunning arrays of colors - red, orange, yellow, purple, white, pink - for miles. The Jews did the hard work to bring revival of the land. Before this - the real truth - this land was barren. The Jews did not steal the land; they paid the asking price to the Arabs for the land and set about revitalizing the land. As we drove along, we could see Jordan to our left. Yaniv pointed out that Israel supplies Jordan with water and gas. They do so, since, as Yaniv stated, “You help your enemy because his enemy is even worse.”

At the junction of Highways 90 and 71, we arrived at Beit Shean, a city that was part of the Decapolis (ten Hellenistic Greek cities), the only one west of the Jordan Valley Rift. It was an important city located at a major crossroads in the ancient world. This large archaeological site has an estimated 30 layers of civilizations, some that lasted dozens of years, some that lasted hundreds of years. At its height, it had a population of 60,000. The final destruction was a massive earthquake in 749, leaving behind toppled columns and buckled streets. We stood at the intersection of the Cardo (major north-south connector) and the Decumanus (major east-west connector). Many shops lined these streets, and you can still see the meticulous mosaics on the sidewalks. I was watching you all, and I could see that you were taking careful notes, so I stopped writing down everything that Yaniv shared with us. Seriously, I couldn’t keep up.

We continued our drive northwest on Highway 669. Yaniv mentioned that winter is the best time to tour Israel, with February being the most green and beautiful. He suggested that Yaniv Bus Driver could house us for a couple of months.

Next stop, Beit Alfa, a Byzantine synagogue excavated in 1929. The Byzantine period spanned from the fourth to the seventh centuries. They were Roman Christians, after Constantine made Christianity the religion of the Eastern Empire. The Jews adopted Hellenistic and Roman symbols: even a mosaic Zodiac circle is on the floor of this partially restored synagogue. We watched a delightful, almost corny video in the lovely, air-conditioned room overlooking the restored remains of the synagogue that told this story.

We continued on Highway 71 on our way to Gideon’s Spring, a peaceful quiet place, located at the foot of Mt. Gilboa. To be clear, we neither lapped the water nor got on our knees to drink the water from the stream. We instead sat in the shade under the trees and listened to Jason teach from Judges 6 and 7. This was the time before Israel had a king; people did what was right in their own eyes. They went through cycles of disobedience, repentance, restoration, obedience, and then strayed away, starting the cycle again. At the end of Judges 5, the land had been at rest for 40 years. Then in Judges 6:1, they did evil and were delivered into the hands of the Midianites. This all goes back to the neglect of Joshua and the Israelites to follow God’s command and destroy all the enemies when they entered the Promised Land. God picked Gideon to defeat the Midianites, and after Gideon destroyed the altar to Baal and built an altar to God, God whittled his army from 32,000 down to 300. It is, after all, the object of your faith that has the power. God works through you to do more than you can even imagine.

On to BI Connect following Highways 71, 60, 73, and 75. We first had lunch at Mercatino on the first floor of the building, and what a lunch it was! Burrata cheese with a cherry sauce, some sort of raw fish thing, cauliflower, beets, green salad, bread, gnocchi, potatoes (which were simply seasoned with salt and pepper yet delicious, probably because they were deep fried, but definitely not a French fry), gnocchi, fried baby artichokes, pesto pizza, and truffle pizza. Entrees (I guess the table FULL of ‘appetizers’ was not enough) were sea bass, calamari, and salmon. Desserts were tiramisu, lemon tart, and whipped cream with a red berry sauce.

Upstairs to the beautiful new offices of BI Connect where Amir and his staff film and produce the videos that are broadcast around the world. Amir took questions from the group for an hour or so, then we were politely asked to leave so that Amir and Barry (from the US) could do the live broadcast of MidEast and Beyond, in which they updated the world about the situation in Gaza with hundreds of Hamas terrorists trapped underground in tunnels in the area now controlled by the IDF. Israel cares enough about the likelihood that there are remains of dead hostages in those tunnels to not go in with guns or bombs blazing. So, Hamas has a choice: surrender and be arrested or die a slow death as they run out of food, water, and oxygen. There is also news from the US as New York City elected a Jew-hating Muslim to be mayor. Is America starting to circle the drain? I’m not sure, but I pray, “Come, Jesus, Come.”

We got back to the hotel after dark. Again. But it does get dark practically in the middle of day. There was a light turnout for dinner tonight. I’m not sure what was on the buffet as I could barely even look at the food.

Recorded by Dona

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You know those mornings when you wake up and you squeeze your eyes shut a bit tighter before you roll over to check the time on your phone, hoping it shows that you have a couple more hours left to sleep? Nope, didn’t happen this morning.  There were 12 minutes left to sleep.

Somehow, it’s a mystery to me, the bellhops at the Scots Hotel could not get all the luggage crammed into the trunk of the bus. People in the back had to scooch a little closer to each other, and we piled the rest of the bags inside the bus. I’ve never seen this in the 11 times I’ve been here. What is going on? Why would our luggage be getting that much fatter?!

Our first stop this morning was at Tabgha, or Seven Springs, a simple yet beautiful site. The mix of the warm water from the springs with the cooler water from the SofG makes this an ideal place to fish. Could this be the place where Jesus called Peter to feed His sheep? Quite possibly. There is also an outcropping of rock that was used to tie up fishing boats. We sat down, and Jason taught out of John 21. This is a favorite site of Jason’s because of what happened here; it is important to know that sanctification is a lifelong journey. After Jesus’ resurrection, He appeared to the disciples multiple times. As they were out fishing one morning, He appeared on the shore, but they did not recognize Him. They were discouraged because they couldn’t catch any fish, but Jesus told them to drop their net one more time, and it was filled with 153 fish. Jesus asked Peter three times if he loved Him and then asked him to “Feed My sheep.” Peter was a stubborn one. But he turned out to be foundational in the early church. The Lord wants you to be involved as well. He doesn’t want you to be an empty vessel on a shelf. In 1 Peter 4:7 and on, we see a new Peter by the end of his life. Soften your heart, and be willing to get rid of whatever is hindering your walk with the Lord. Otherwise, you will miss out on what He wants to do.

There was a sign at the entrance that advised, “NO DOGS!”, but apparently, a large fluffy gray cat sprawled out in the drinking fountain is okay.

As we left, we circled around the SofG on Highways 90 and 92 to the “other side”! But we made it safely to Yardenit, a leafy, serene setting on the Jordan River where the water barely moves and the little fish tickle your feet. Eleven people were baptized this morning, making a public declaration of their faith. Alex, Alejandro, Sofia, Gayle, Lysbeth, Robin, Melanie, John, Jane, Patrick, and Rob. A special time of fellowship. It. Never. Gets. Old.

We drove south on 90 and turned west on 71 to get to Kimmel Restaurant. The food is wonderful, but what makes this place special is the view of the surrounding valleys and mountains. Ofer, the jewelry guy, met us there, and some of us ordered custom rings, bracelets, and necklaces. Our lunch was bread, liver with some sort of long red fried things on top of it, pappardelle with fresh tomato sauce, cheese ravioli, risotto, cheese with beets, lamb kebabs, some sort of chicken cooked with something unknown but tasty, and salmon, followed by desserts of muhallebi (the colorful crème brulee-looking thing) and chocolate cake with ice cream. And sluggish Turkish coffee.

We took Highway 65 to Megiddo. This tel has as many 27 layers of civilizations. Most of the visible ruins are from King Solomon’s time. He had large horse stables built in this fortification overlooking the Jezreel Valley. We saw some other cool stuff, all of which I’m sure you all remember with crystal clarity, so I won’t bother writing any more about that.

We made our way to the most important city in the world, Jerusalem, through heavy traffic on Highway 6. We will be spending our next three nights at the legendary King David Hotel. They are treating us like royalty!

Dinner was not buffet tonight for a change. After a more discreet, manageable display of appetizers than what we have become accustomed to, they served each of us prime rib, potato puree, and green beans.

We didn’t walk as much today, but for some reason, the group is tired. We need some good rest to be ready for the Old City tomorrow. Time to get to bed!

Recorded by Dona

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The shower was rather a shocking affair this morning. Having grown up as a farm girl from southwest Kansas, I’d have to say the water was hot enough and with enough pressure to defeather a chicken. Ah, those were the days before I went to Walmart to buy a pack of boneless, skinless chicken filets.

This hotel is so nice. The breakfast buffet was a feast for the taste buds and the eyes; all served in an elegant dining room.

We made our way to the top of Mt. of Olives which took us through East Jerusalem. A different kind of neighborhood than around our hotel. You can see who really owns the land and takes care of it.

From the top, it is quite a panorama, with views of the eastern wall of the Temple Mount (topped by the Dome of the Rock and Al Aqsa Mosque) directly in front of you across the Kidron (or Jehoshaphat) Valley, the City of David to our left (down the hill to the south), the Antonio Fortress to our right (just north of the Temple Mount). Jewish graves line the slope going down the Kidron Valley, and Muslim graves are on the other side, pushing up against the current Eastern Gate (the Muslims bury their dead there with the hopes that it will prevent Jesus from returning and entering the city). They apparently don’t really know who Jesus is. The Dome of the Rock is in the same approximate area where the First and Second Temples stood, built on the top of Mt. Moriah, where Abraham went to offer his son Isaac as a sacrifice.

Jerusalem is the largest city in Jerusalem, with a population of 1 million. The walls around the Old City are from 1537, built by Suleiman the Magnificent.

We made our way down the Palm Sunday Road, which sounds like it would be a peaceful place to walk, think, and meditate. But, no, it’s a narrow street not more than one lane wide with cars going in both directions, the drivers apparently oblivious to the fact that tourists are plastering themselves against the rock walls, trying to keep from getting flattened. This road leads to the Garden of Gethsemane and the Church of All Nations. A rock is the central focus of this church, purported to be the place where Jesus went to pray after the Last Supper.

Jason taught from the Bible at a couple of places – first at the top of the mount near the military cemetery and then at the Garden of Gethsemane. First, from Matthew 24, where Jesus delivered the Olivet Discourse. The disciples asked about the end of times, but Jesus did not reveal all the details. The nation was in unbelief: His own had not accepted Him. This passage was delivered to a Jewish audience. Those in Judea (Jews) will flee to the mountains. This has not yet been fulfilled; it will happen during the tribulation. God has always had a remnant of His chosen people, even though there is judgment.  There will be restoration. Zechariah 13:8-9 tells us that 2/3rd of the Israelites will not survive the tribulation, but the remaining 1/3rd will call out to God and be saved.

From Matthew 26:36+, Jesus prayed in the Garden of Gethsemane three times to have this cup pass from Him. It did not, and Jesus suffered a horrible, horrible death. Taking the cup meant taking on all of God’s wrath for our sins so that we would not have to. Jesus gave His life willingly, but still, Hebrews 12:1 talks about the sin that so easily ensnares us. And that is the sin of unbelief.

We next walked down into the Kidron Valley past ancient tombs, including one assigned to Absalom (David’s son), but it is completely from the wrong era, and then back up the other side at least 1000 steps. Fortunately, Jason had crammed his backpack full of bottles of water, and we survived as we shielded our eyes from the sun and craned our necks, hoping to see the end of the stairs.

We entered the Old City through the Dung Gate. The city was not terribly crowded today with other busloads of tourists (tourism is still not back to normal since the war), so we were able to sit down at the ruins of thresholds of ancient shops and get a good view of the Herodian Street, or Jesus Street as it is sometimes called, since this is a street where Jesus and the disciples would have walked. A lot of structures we see come from much later, with anything from the time of Jesus covered up by years of destruction and rebuilding. But this is the real thing! To the left of us was a pile of stones that the Roman soldiers hurled down during the destruction of the temple in 70 AD. Above us on the wall of the Temple Mount was a protrusion of what is left of Robinson’s Arch. This was a staircase that led from the street below to access the Temple Mount. The size of the stones used to build the retaining wall of the Temple Mount is mind-boggling; the bigger ones are 40 feet long, 15 feet wide, and 10 feet high or more. Herod didn’t have engineers with computers and drafting tables, nor did they have cranes and forklifts. I just can’t imagine how they managed to do it, all without mortar. The stones fit together perfectly so that mortar was not needed.

We made our way over to the Southern Steps, first stopping to hear from Yaniv about how the Muslims have no real connection to the Temple Mount. They just want it because the Jews want it. Jews and Christians have strong connections to Jerusalem, but yet they are not allowed on the Temple Mount without going through security.

Jesus and all the other Jews would have used the Southern Steps to access the temple gates. It is likely that this is where Peter delivered the sermon from Acts 2, in which 3,000 were saved and baptized. This hypothesis is supported by the presence of numerous mikvahs at the base of the steps that have been unearthed, where many could have been baptized.

After passing through chaotic security, we spent a few minutes in prayer at the Western Wall (a small portion of the retaining wall of the Temple Mount, which is the closest the Jews can get to where the Holiest of Holies in the temple would have been).

We then climbed another 500 steps as we dragged ourselves up to the Jewish Quarter Plaza. (Disclaimer: The estimates of the number of steps may or may not be 100% accurate.) By the time we got there, the cafes and stores were already closing due to Shabbat starting tonight. So, we stood in long, loud lines at the couple of shops that remained open and bought our shawarma and falafel with our 100 NIS. Those of us from the West just aren’t quite used to how it all works, the shouting, the invasion of private space, how to actually get your order once you place it. But we did manage to eat and get back to the meeting point almost on time.

Yaniv led us on a brief tour through the rest of the Jewish Quarter, including a view of the Broad Wall of Hezekiah and the cardo, the main street through the city. Then up yet another flight of stairs to the Upper Room, a place that has been stripped and renovated so many times that there is no evidence that Jesus and the disciples were even here for the Last Supper.

We were all glad to see the bus and Yaniv. It was a really long day, but most of us managed to muster enough energy to visit the Jerusalem Souvenir Shop. After some negotiating and purchasing, we got back to the hotel in good time because there is little traffic since Shabbat began at sunset!

I apologize to you all that I didn’t get more notes today, but to be honest, I heard very little of what Yaniv had to say. Either he was talking really quietly, or my ears need to be cleaned out because I just could not hear him.

And I can’t really describe the Shabbat dinner tonight, because those next to me and I could not figure out what most of the stuff was, even after sampling. Some of it was good, and some of it was…interesting.

Recorded by Dona

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Shabbat Shalom! We got to sleep in just a bit this morning before we headed to the Garden Tomb.

There are two sites here in Jerusalem that could be the location of the death, burial, and resurrection of Jesus: the Garden Tomb and the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. We opt to take our tour groups to the Garden Tomb. It sits just outside the Damascus Gate, and in Jesus’ day, it was located on a major crossroads (the road to Damascus and the road to Jericho) in a very public place, as the Romans wanted to make an example of the criminals being crucified.  As much as I love the old hymn, The Old Rugged Cross, the hanging did not take place on an isolated hillside in the country. The far end of the site overlooks a cliff that once resembled a Skull before erosion took place over the years. Other than the city buses rumbling below and spewing out noxious fumes, it is a wonderful, peaceful site. There is a garden and an ancient wine press, indicating that this garden was likely an agricultural enterprise, possibly for the wealthy Joseph of Arimathea. And finally, a tomb hewn out of rock. But, like Lindsay, our lovely guide from Liverpool, said, “In the end, it doesn’t matter where it all happened, but that it did happen.” Amen to that!

We had the privilege to take part in communion. Jason led us in two songs: Christ the Magnified and Oh Praise the Name. In Luke 22:14 and on, Jesus knew His hour had come and He speaks of the New Covenant, made available because of His shed blood. The Jews (and now Gentiles as well) were no longer bound by the Law. Jesus was looking forward to accomplishing the Lord’s will. It gives us assurance as we look forward. Praise God!

Jason bought six boxes of chocolate bars from Mohammed, who is ALWAYS there hawking his 20 bookmarks for a dollar. Amir has known him since he was a child, and we always do our best to support him in making a bit of money.

We next went to the Tower of David, which is just inside the Jaffa Gate. The fortress was bult by King Herod the Great and dates back 2200 years (well after King David!) and has been rebuilt many times. The tower is ‘only’ 500 years old. We climbed and climbed our way to the top for an impressive 360° view of the Old City and modern Jerusalem. I think I would have been able to hear Yaniv today if the Muslim call to prayer had not been broadcast LOUDLY over crackling speakers.

Next off to lunch at the Karma Restaurant in Ein Karem, hometown of John the Baptist. A spiral staircase took us upstairs, and it took two spiral staircases going downstairs to get to the restrooms. But with large lunches, perhaps it is okay. As always, I will list what we had for lunch, as I hear from so many people how bad the food is on tours to the Holy Land. If anyone says this to you, you can refer them here. We had tomato and cucumber salad, green salad, really, really good bread, cigars (eggroll-looking things with “meat”), eggplant, lamb kebabs, chicken schnitzel (pounded into pieces the size of a surfboard), grilled chicken, rice, French fries, roasted potatoes, rice, and finally Nutella and apple pastries.

It was a short drive to the Israel Museum, a massive complex of fabulous museums. We stopped first at the impressive model of Jerusalem from the 2nd Temple Period Era, built to a scale of 1:50. This really helps you get your bearings as to the layout of the city the day after we were there walking around.

The Shrine of the Book is dedicated to the Dead Sea Scrolls and the Essene community that preserved these valuable writings. The building itself is a work of art; the dome is designed to resemble the lid of the type of jar in which the Dead Sea Scrolls were discovered. The centerpiece is a replica of the complete scroll of the Book of Isaiah. Side note: when Amir came to see this for the first time, he compared it to his modern-day Bible. And it was a match. So much for skeptics who say they can’t believe the Bible because so much has changed over the years, and it’s been twisted by man.

We then visited the world-renowned Archaeological Museum. So much history and amazing antiquities, perfectly displayed. It would take days to truly see everything here, and we had 45 minutes. Highlights included the Pilate Stone (we saw a replica at Caesarea) and a Roman nail that would have been used to hang someone on a cross. And so much more.

Back to the hotel for dinner. Light turnout tonight for the meal with the usual spread of salads and the plated entrée of stuffed chicken. It’s an early wakeup call tomorrow. So I will sign off. For now.

Recorded by Dona

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I was really hoping that I would have the light switches figured out in my room by the time we checked out. But it was not to be. It was either utter darkness with no way to make it back to bed without banging your knee against the bedside table, or a series of trips back and forth to the door to each lamp, on and off, on and off, and then not being able to charge my phone next to the bed when the light was out. I never did get that part figured out, but I did get the room almost dark, with only one bright light still on in the closet.

It's a Sunday. Somehow it doesn’t feel like a Sunday. But it is, which means Congress is not working on ending the government shutdown, which means we may not get home for weeks. As we said farewell to Jerusalem, I played Shalom Jerusalem by Paul Wilbur as we took one last view of the Temple Mount. Amir played that for us the first time I came to Israel 10 years ago and that experience is forever stuck in my mind. And I hope it meant something to you as well. 

The moment we left the city heading east on Highway 1, we were in the wilderness. The highway passes through Israel and the West Bank. And it is obvious which is which. The mentality is just different, to quote Yaniv. Jesus and other Galilean Jews would have walked through this area on their way to Jerusalem for the holidays. We could feel our ears pop as we descended from the mountains through sea level and eventually all the way to the Dead Sea, which is the lowest place on Earth at 1400 feet below sea level. We passed by Jericho, now controlled by the Palestinians, before turning south on Highway 90.

First stop of the day was Qumran, where Yaniv allowed us to shop for an hour before showing us around. I’m so glad we got the van to follow us around because not only are the suitcases getting fatter, but they are also multiplying! Good grief, like Charlie Brown would have said. When we arrived, we were the only bus in the parking lot. It is convenient for us, but not so good for shops and sites with such a drop in tourism. The manager Rita had tears in her eyes as she thanked us for coming and spending freely. Thank you everyone for blessing her business. The towel guy at the hotel pool told me that only about two weeks ago did they start seeing a return of tour groups.  (Behold, Israel was here in May, June, and September, so we were going out boldly first, apparently!)

Qumran is where the Dead Sea Scrolls were accidentally found in 1947 by a young Bedouin boy looking for his lost goat. As he threw a stone in a cave, he heard the breaking of glass. One of the most important discoveries ever! The self-sufficient Essene community that had painstakingly reproduced the scrolls of the Old Testament had stashed copies in caves for safekeeping. Not surprisingly, these finds have only confirmed the authenticity of the Bible.

As we continued on to En Gedi, we did not see one single ibex. I was so disappointed. Maybe tomorrow. En Gedi is an oasis in the desert, located on the western shore of the Dead Sea, with freshwater springs fed by the rainfall on the mountains to the west. We sat under a spiky acacia tree, and Jason taught from 1 Samuel 24. At the end of chapter 23, Saul is once again pursuing David. As chapter 24 starts, David and his men are hiding out in the strongholds of En Gedi, resting at the back of a cave. Saul comes in to “attend to his needs,” and David has the perfect opportunity to eliminate the man who wants to kill him. But David only cut off the corner of Saul’s robe. And then felt bad about doing that! Saul was anointed by God, after all. Saul admitted that David was more righteous than him, and that David would surely be king someday. He asked David to not cut off his descendants, nor destroy his name. Then Saul went on his merry way, while David and his men returned to the stronghold. Why didn’t they go back to the city together? Because David knew the tendencies of Saul and that he would one day try to chase him down again.  David keeps his end of the bargain as he blessed Saul’s grandson many years later (Saul and his son Jonathan had been killed by this point) in 2 Samuel 9 by giving him a portion of the land and inviting him to eat at the king’s table. Just like David, we need to use discernment in dealing with those who hurt us, ask for forgiveness, then hurt us again and again.

Next stop, Masada. What an engineering marvel! I’m not sure we could even do this stuff today. Herod may have been a murderous psychopath, but he was a genius at building things. Earlier, we saw his work in Caesarea (and there are other sites in Israel), and now this monstrosity. In the first century BC, he had a three-level palace built on the north end of this flat-topped mountain, which rises from the Dead Sea all the way to sea level at its summit. And then the bath house, which is misnamed since you didn’t go there for a bath, you went there to socialize! (Eww.) First, there was the cold-water plunge area. Beyond that was the steam room, where steam was created by channeling hot water beneath a floating floor. The rising steam filled the room, and the domed ceiling prevented condensation from dripping onto the men relaxing below and prevented mold buildup. He also created a way to gather and store water. When the flashfloods came, a system of channels would direct the water to a series of cisterns that could hold enough water for 1000 people for four years!

A group of Jews led by Eleazar ben Ya’ir fled to this fortress in 66 AD when the Jews revolted against the Romans. They did not surrender after the destruction of the temple in 70 AD, and finally, Flavius Silva was sent to take care of this problem in 73 AD. It was not an easy task; it took three months to defeat this band of determined Jews holed up in the fortress. The Roman legion of 12,000 men had to build a ramp up the western side of the mountain and then use a battering ram to breach the wall. The one thousand Jews, badly outnumbered, fought until they could fight no more. The night before they knew it was all over for them, they decided they would rather die than be captured by the Romans. So, they set about doing just that. First, each man killed his own wife and family (likely with knives), then they selected ten men by lot, and those ten killed the other men. Then one man killed the other nine, and then the final one committed suicide. When the Romans burst in on the mountain top the next morning, all they found were dead bodies. This incident was recorded by Josephus, a noted Jewish historian, who had joined up with the Romans by then. It has been discounted by scholars over the years, but new evidence is now showing the story to be valid.

A short bus ride, as we continued south, took us to the Isrotel Nevo Hotel at the Dead Sea. We had a late lunch (a rather large buffet – I’m not sure how we are going to readjust when we get home), and then we had the option of going into the salty Dead Sea or using the pools at the spa, either the freshwater one or the salty one. You just walk in to about thigh-high and then sit down, and you float! The minerals were a balm for aching feet. It was really nice to be able to relax a few hours before dinner.

I must say, I was quite pleased with the buffet tonight. It was a nice break in routine to have some teriyaki noodles! And that double chocolate cookie! Did anyone else have one of those?

Recorded by Dona

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I’m convinced shower designers must never take showers themselves. I don’t want to have to reach under the shower head to turn on the water and adjust the temperature. And don’t get me started on the shower door. Fortunately, the bathmat caught the bulk of the water—and a little ledge saved the bedroom from becoming a wading pool.

That breakfast. I walked around and videotaped the buffet line, and the video was 1 minute, 44 seconds long. Just to walk around it! Eggs, salad, pizza, bread, desserts, and on and on.

We departed the lovely Dead Sea, our skin soft and supple, leaving behind two dead cockroaches. We turned south, staying on Highway 90, along the Jordanian Valley on our left and the edge of the Negev Desert to our right. The saltiness continued; Yaniv said that the mountains are formed of salt under the sediment. We passed by “Lot’s Wife,” a rock/salt formation that resembles a woman, I guess, but she was much bigger than any of us had ever imagined, and Yaniv seemed skeptical that it was really her.

Jason played his guitar, and we sang How Deep is the Father’s Love for Us, Goodness of God, Promises, and Great Are You Lord. I had the privilege of sharing my story and my healing here in this land. All glory to God for preparing me for such a time as this.

As we continued south, we entered the Araba Desert. Our first (and only) stop of the day was Timna Park, a national park that is difficult to describe. The desert floor is flat, dotted with sharp cliffs, which form craggily shapes, including one that looks like a screw, one like the sphinx, and one called Solomon’s Pillars, where we stopped for a group photo. Copper was mined here during the time of King Solomon, and you can the red in the rocks.

The highlight here at Timna Park is the life-sized replica of the tabernacle that God commanded Moses to build. Is it the exact size? Pretty close, but it depends on what size of cubit you use. Your cubit does not equal my cubit. The Israelites received specific instructions, which are spelled out in multiple chapters of Exodus, starting in chapter 25. Those passages are not the easiest to read but now having seen it in person and hearing from our guide Ariel as he explained the details of this construction and how Jesus is evident, it will be different when we return home and read these chapters. The Levites had to carry this thing around, assemble it, take it down, and carry it again as the Israelites moved through the wilderness on their way to the Promised Land.

In 2 Corinthians 6:16, Paul writes that we “are the temple of the living God…” What an honor…may we always treat our bodies and hearts with much respect for Him. We were once again near a thorny acacia tree. Ariel explained that trees in the Bible represent sin and the consequences of sin. This tree shows that we are all crooked people, but God wants to take us and reshape us into something beautiful.

Time for lunch, this time a bit different. No tomato and cucumber salad, no tahini, no olives. We ate at Casa Do Brasil. We were served green salad, rice, chili(!), roasted potatoes, beef stir fry (Mongolian beef, perhaps), a grilled meat platter of sausage, chicken wings, chicken thighs, and meatballs, lava cake, and some sort of cheesecake dessert. No doubt the least healthy meal we’ve had so far, but it was quite tasty. And, as always, it’s about more than that. It’s about the fellowship.

Free time this afternoon, after we checked in at the beautiful Royal Beach Hotel in Eilat, which is on the very southern tip of Israel.  This is a resort town for Israelis, reflected by the great swimming pool area and shopping, store after store!

A massive buffet for dinner. Plenty of variety for everyone, including an ice cream bar. A real treat for some people!

Get some good sleep tonight. We are parting the Red Sea tomorrow! Wait. Never mind. We are cruising the Red Sea tomorrow.

Recorded by Dona

No wakeup call this morning, which I was really looking forward to because one of my favorite things to do is to sleep in. But, nnnnoooo, at 6:09 am, BAM, I was wide awake. I am thinking it was God’s wakeup call. I am so glad I went to worship this morning. We started out with a favorite song of mine, Lord I Need You.

Little side story. I “rock” myself to sleep at night by going through the alphabet, coming up with words that describe God’s characteristics (or people/places in the Bible, things I am thankful for, etc.)  Such as: A – Alpha, B – Bread of Life, C – Creator, D – Defense, and so on. Lord, I Need You has great ‘words’ for this routine. Oddly enough, I will many times fall asleep when I get to the letter N. When I wake up during the night, my mind immediately goes to the letter N. And the game continues. Slight bit of OCD, perhaps.

We also sang Holy, Holy, Holy and Getting Ready. People shared their life verses. The Bible is so rich; what a gift it is from God.

Another ginormous breakfast buffet (forgive me for not listing the food items). It was so lovely sitting outside and enjoying each other’s company.

It was about a 10-minute walk to the boat, a three-story tour boat, nothing fancy, with rather precarious stairs to go to the second and third decks. More like a ladder than steps, but as far as I know, we survived without any mishaps. We cruised along for an hour or so with views of Israel, Jordan, and Egypt, plus Saudi Arabia in the far hazy distance. The Israeli Navy took a special interest in us as we neared the invisible border with Jordan and sped over for a closer look. The captain did not seem to be alarmed in the least and took what seemed to be an inordinate amount of time to turn our boat around. Fortunately, we escaped without harm.

We sailed on one of the two northern fingers of the Red Sea, on the Gulf of Aqaba. It is not known exactly where God parted the Red Sea, but it was likely south of us in Saudi Arabia. The captain anchored the boat, and a few people took advantage of the clear, beautiful water. Lunch was served on the lower deck: beef kebabs, sausage, chicken, rice, noodles, potatoes, salads – basically the usual plethora of items. It was surprisingly good for such a setting.

The trip lasted four hours. The rest of the afternoon was free, and people went shopping, took a nap, or whatever. Then it was back to the buffet. So many choices, it’s just crazy.

Last day. Tomorrow. How time flies when you are living the life! People ask me if managing these groups is like herding cats. Well, yes, it is. But I like cats.

Recorded by Dona

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I skipped breakfast this morning. Finally, the feast for the eyes and the stomach gets to be a bit much (that’s what happens when you live large), and I just crave a piece of cinnamon toast.

As we departed for our long journey back to Tel Aviv this morning, Amir came on board the bus and prayed that we would not only be ambassadors for Christ, but also for the people and the land of Israel. The times we live in, with the open and radical antisemitism, should not be unexpected, and we must do our part to share the truth. He then bid us farewell and said, “See you here, there, or in the air.” Pastor James prayed over Amir, asking God for His protection as he teaches around the world, for such a time as this.

We started our journey north on Highway 90, passing by the facility with the Iron Dome (air defense system to intercept rockets) and Patriot Batteries (surface-to-air missiles). Israel would not exist; they would be in the dustbin of history, but God has miraculously saved them multiple times, from Old Testament times to the present day. He also equipped them, made the stiff-necked and stubborn, sometimes to their disadvantage and sometimes to their advantage, with their attitude of life and survival. On the guardrails, fences, and sides of buildings are Israeli flags and yellow flags. They will fly until every single hostage, dead or alive, is home.

We turned west on Highway 13 through the Arava Valley to the Negev Desert, beautiful mountainous country with varying colors swirling through the sides of the cliffs. Riverbeds, dry today, are creased with miles and miles of channels, evidence of past flash floods. Yaniv said flash floods could happen anytime, even today, causing just a ripple of alarm through the bus, until he clarified further that it was not literally happening today.

Our first site was Avdat National Park, the ruins of an ancient Nabatean city from 2500 years ago, later replaced by a Byzantine Church atop this flat mountain with views all around of the desert, a Bedouin camp, and an Israeli air base in the distance, with multiple flights (F-16s and Apache helicopters) taking off to take care of business, make a delivery, so to speak. Lunch was at the Aroma Coffee Café and a Mexican place next door, all in the same building as a gas station. On this tour, we stay at the King David, but we also eat in the parking lots of gas stations. Of course, Magnum ice cream bars taste really good no matter where you buy them.

As we drove further north, we passed through a vast area where the IDF develops and tests weapons because there is plenty of space. Yaniv continued to share some of his knowledge as we continued our journey. While Zionism officially became a thing in the late 1800s with Herzl, it was around much longer than that as the treatment of Jews in Spain (and other places) led many to return to the land. The antisemitism actually created a new type of Jew. No longer will they just sit in a room and study books all day; we will become powerful and productive. For centuries, Jews were not allowed to hold land or possessions, such as facilities or factories, by the churches of Europe unless the Jews converted. This is why the Jews traded gems and diamonds, which are small and can be easily hidden. Spain lost a whole segment of society when it got rid of the Jews, and after the Inquisition in the late 1400s, that society went downhill. Just as the Bible says will happen to nations that curse Jews.

It astounds me how Yaniv can start a sentence – go off on some other topic or talk in rapid-fire Hebrew on his ever-present phone – and then regain his train of thought and go back to exactly where he left off.

Our last site for the tour is Be’er Sheva. In Genesis 21, Abraham made a covenant with Abimelech, king of the Philistines, and regained ownership of the well he had dug. The ruins here show what typical storehouses and dwellings would have looked like. Jason taught from the Bible as we gathered under the metal spiral staircase. To understand the history and foundation of our faith, we need to go back to God’s covenant with Abram in Genesis 12:1-3. God promised this land to what would become the Jewish people. God repeated this covenant to Isaac and Jacob. We have all now experienced this land and we can trust God’s promises. Echoing Amir’s prayer this morning, you are now responsible for praying for this land, for the people of this land. Even when the prophet Balaam in Numbers 23 tried to curse this land, he couldn’t do it even when he was hired to do just that! We ended our stay here by taking the wooden and rough stone steps to the bottom of the huge cistern (burning a few calories). Fortunately, when we came to the bottom, we did not have to climb back out as we somehow ended up at the entrance to the site.

Yaniv G drove us through heavy traffic on Highway 40 to 6, then back to 40. What an amazing driver he is. I’ve had my share of drivers in Israel, and I so appreciate the care he takes, slowing down, carefully maneuvering tight corners, easing past parked cars in the street with just inches to spare. All without a scratch!

The farewell dinner was held at Truman’s Restaurant, located near the airport in Tel Aviv, a popular spot among locals serving American fare, including chicken wings, chicken nuggets, large soft pretzels with cheese dip, French fries, onion rings, mashed potatoes, fish, salmon, and giant CHEESE burgers. We haven’t seen one of those since we left home!

Then a return to the airport where it all began. Teary farewells were said as we collected our luggage one last time from the bus and van. We are off in different directions: some to spend several extra days, some for just a short night at a nearby hotel, and the rest of us to catch flights in just a few hours. It’s always an experience to make your way through the check-in process and security at TLV. Sometimes they carefully inspect the backpacks and Bibles, and sometimes they don’t. I was lucky this time.

Thank you to each one of you for trusting Behold Israel for a tour to God’s Promised Land. And as the Bible verse and song says, “May God bless you and keep you.” Until next time, stay safe. Keep in touch.

Recorded by Dona